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Two
hundred years ago, the Delta was little more than a vast swamp teeming
with snakes and mosquitoes. So impenetrable was this flat, bayou-laced
landscape that few men dared to settle within it. The only easy
access was provided by the many rivers and bayous bordering and
running through the region. The mighty Mississippi gave pioneers
access to the Delta's western border, and thus the first settlements
gained their footholds on the banks of Big Muddy. In the year 1836,
just nineteen years after Mississippi became a state, a region along
the river was mapped out and named Bolivar County. Adam Bingaman,
a Natchez native and Battle of New Orleans hero, suggested the name
to honor the famous
South American liberator and statesman, Simon Bolivar.
Between 1836 and 1844, the Bolivar county seat moved a number of
times but remained on lands near the river. Finally, in 1851, the
state legislature decreed that a spot known as Indian Point, directly
opposite the mouth of the Arkansas River, should be the permanent
site for county government. A brick courthouse and jail were erected
there in what was then Prentiss, Mississippi, in 1856. Shelled by
Union gunboats during the War Between the States, Prentiss fell
into ruins and was abandoned to the ravages of the Mississippi.
On the move again, the county seat relocated a number of times between
1866 and 1872 finally settling on a site first known as Floreyville
but later christened for posterity as Rosedale. Bolivar County government
maintains a courthouse to this day in the port city of Rosedale.
Around the same time that the county seat was being politically
moved from place to place along the river, more adventurous settlers
were making their way inland and finding high areas of fertile soil
where land could be cleared. One such pioneer was named Moses P.
Coleman. He acquired property along a stream named Jones Bayou on
the eastern side of the county, built a home, and began the settlement
that would soon become Cleveland.
In the mid-1800's, the railroad began selling land in this, the
heart of the Delta. Sawmills sprang up to process the extensive
timber being cleared from the fertile land, and, slowly but surely,
farms, roads, and towns began to appear. In 1884, a rail line connecting
Memphis and New Orleans was completed with a "golden spike"
being driven near the spot on Jones Bayou where Coleman and others
had settled. Situated almost exactly halfway between Memphis and
the major port of Vicksburg, the small settlement was now connected
to the outside world by dependable rail service. Dependence on the
river waned, and fortunes were made selling timber. In 1884 the
Jones Bayou settlement appeared in county records as Fontaine, Mississippi,
though at various times it had also been known as Coleman or Coleman's
Station in honor of its founder. In 1885, the name of the community
had changed to Sims, the name of a major property owner. Finally
chartered in 1886, the settlement at last adopted its present name
of Cleveland in honor of President Grover Cleveland.
Soon banks, dry goods stores, saloons, and hotels shared in the
growth of the community. The still-familiar names of Pearman, Smith,
Beevers, Johnson, McKnight, Kamien, Nowell, and Taylor came to prominence
as the town grew. The Delta was still plagued with numerous hardships
- malaria was a constant threat well into the 20th century - but
as the swamps were drained and the land cleared, more and more settlers
came in with the railroad, and Cleveland prospered.
The early decades of the 20th century saw unimpeded progress and
growth. When major fires burned whole sections of the town, they
were rebuilt. By 1915, Italian immigrant farmers had arrived and
began working fields west of town, a new Consolidated Agricultural
High School had been built, a volunteer fire department was established,
and the Bolivar Commercial newspaper had been published. With the
exception of the school which has since grown to include multiple
campuses, all the above are still a part of Cleveland today.
In
1915, another pillar of the Cleveland community was established
with the creation of Delta Teachers College. The town and the county
had grown to such a degree that Cleveland was seen as a perfect
location for an institution of higher learning, and the town's residents
overwhelmingly supported the bonds needed to secure the new college.
Over the decades the Teachers College has evolved into what is now
Cleveland's most prominent landmark, Delta State University. Boasting
some 4,000 students, one of the most beautiful campuses in the state,
and home to several national championship teams in both basketball
and football; DSU is one of the most well-respected regional universities
in the South.
World Wars, the Great Depression, and the turbulent 60's came and
went, but Cleveland continued to thrive. U. S. Congressman David
Bowen, Reagan press spokesman Larry Speakes, famous Boston Red Sox
pitcher Dave "Boo" Ferriss, Silence of the Lambs author
Thomas Harris, renown pianist Bruce Levingston, and many other outstanding
individuals all claim ties to Cleveland and Bolivar County. The
yearly Delta Council meetings held in Cleveland have been addressed
by such notables as William Faulkner, Werner von Braun, and President
George Bush. Industries including Baxter Laboratories, Du-oFast
Corporation and Tyson Corporation have made Cleveland their home.
The new port of Rosedale has revitalized the old county seat on
the western side of Bolivar County. The future truly looks bright
for this county and the city of Cleveland as they progress through
their second century of life in the heart of the Delta.
For more information visit the: The Delta Center
for Culture and Learning
Photos
from "Reflections" published by The Bolivar Commercial
©1998
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